New England style clam chowder is classic comfort food among Oregonians. It’s white and creamy, due to milk or cream, thick, and made with clams, potatoes, onions, and sometimes bacon. It’s served often with oyster crackers, topped with bay shrimp, or San Francisco style in a large sourdough bread bowl. With the coming of fall, I couldn’t imagine a more soothing meal.

It was a cool early October morning and, bundled in my wool scarf and leather jacket with my Porsche’s top down, I looked forward to driving a perfect line as I entered the twisty curves along Oregon’s rugged coastline. 

I could smell the waft of salt from the wild Pacific Ocean waves crashing against the many desolate sandy beaches as I waited for the moody fog to burn off. With the sound of my Porsche’s flat six engine purring in my ears, I traveled for five days, north and south, exploring several of Oregon’s coastal towns and historic lighthouses and, of course, sampling chowder at every opportunity.

My 500-kilometer journey took me from Astoria at the entrance of the mighty Columbia River to Charleston, a small town in Oregon’s Bay Area. I travelled far and feasted well and here are my discoveries in search of Oregon Coast’s best clam chowder. 

Related story: Savouring the best South Okanagan wineries

Monkey Business Food Express to Go, Charleston 

Monkey Business, a bright banana-yellow stand with adjacent picnic tables situated in the corner of Charleston Marina parking lot, won my choice for Oregon Coast’s Best Clam Chowder.

While the business name is bewildering, it stems from good intentions. The owner told me she purchased the business recently from the original owner and decided to keep the Monkey Business name for continuity.

Her house-made clam chowder was delicious and delicate, with a rich clam flavour, a light creamy broth, potatoes diced in small squares, and plenty of baby clams. The soup was garnished with a touch of burnt orange Cajun powder and served with oyster crackers – the perfect finishing touches.

Charleston is a community of less than 1000 residents, and they are very lucky to have Monkey Business serving up Oregon Coast’s best clam chowder. Open daily from 11am – 4pm, except on Wednesdays when it’s closed, make sure to check this food truck’s Facebook page for current hours before visiting.

Dory Cove, Lincoln City 

While I may have crowned Monkey Business’ clam chowder the best on the Oregon Coast, there are some who would disagree with me, and they might direct you to Dory Cove in Lincoln City.

During my evening visit, the restaurant was packed, and their clam chowder did not disappoint. It was neither too thick, nor too thin. It was very flavoursome with loads of potatoes, large clams, bacon, and a sprinkle of parsley on top. I followed it with beer battered fish tacos with a side of roasted red potatoes and onions – a very rewarding dinner after a day exploring Oregon’s lighthouses.

A family style restaurant, Dory Cove offers good service with an extensive menu, including seafood, pasta, and prime rib. Even if this wasn’t my pick for best clam chowder, you will not be disappointed by a visit to this coastal gem. 

Ecola Seafood Restaurant and Marketplace, Cannon Beach

Cannon Beach is home to Haystack Rock, an Oregon icon of the stunning Oregon coastline. A small seaside village with outstanding resorts and well-known as a luxury travel destination for romantic getaways, Cannon Beach is a great place to visit for any traveller.

My lunch choice was Ecola Seafood Restaurant and Market, located one block east of North Hemlock St. in the downtown district. What is unique about this eatery is that the owners catch their fish on their own fishing boats along the Oregon and Washington coasts, bringing the freshest seafood to their customers.

Their homemade clam chowder was very good and had a smooth, balanced taste with the potatoes and the clams equally represented. Here, the chef prepares the chowder with no bacon and no flour, so the dish is pescatarian and gluten free. There is plenty of outdoor seating plus a rooftop deck which I enjoyed on my sunny afternoon visit.

Norma’s Seafood and Steak, Seaside

Seaside is home to Norma’s Seafood and Steak which claims the title of the World’s Best Clam Chowder. This 45-year-old establishment is in a light blue lighthouse-shaped building with white trim, just off-Broadway Street in the main shopping area.

Here you will find clam chowder that is thick and tasty, made from scratch with an abundance of clams and potatoes but no pork. It is served with warm, freshly baked bread and a pat of butter or with garlic toast. Epicurious named this little restaurant’s clam chowder one of the ten best soups in the USA and, with an extensive fresh seafood menu from crab cakes to king crab legs, there are plenty of dishes to make a visit worth it.

Seaside is a very popular destination as it has several hotels offering a variety of accommodations and activities for the whole family. You can explore sandy beaches, ride the wild surf, bike the promenade, or ride the carousel.

My fall journey along the Oregon coastline was another awesome Porsche Road trip. Navigating along winding cliffside roads, exploring the endless sandy beaches and picturesque lighthouses and, of course, searching for the Oregon Coast’s best clam chowder made each day a scrumptious Porsche adventure.

This story was published in the Porsche Club of America – Canada West Region Timberline magazine, Winter 2022.

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Now delighted to hear that Amtrak Cascades service between Vancouver and Seattle in conjunction with Amtrak and Via Rail has resume service, which was suspended in 2020 due to the pandemic.

The current schedule has the morning Cascades train to Vancouver departing Seattle at 7:45 a.m., stoping at five cities along the way and arrive into Vancouver at 11:45 a.m.

Traveling southbound, Amtrak will depart Vancouver at 5:45 p.m. and arrive into Seattle at 10:10 p.m.

Amtrak is planning to add a second daily trip with a morning departure from Vancouver in the near future.

Amtrak Cascades runs along the coast line from British Columbia, through river and mountain vistas in Washington and Oregon, offering passenger views of pacific northwest’s most distinctive cities and spectacular natural attractions. 

Seattle to Portland

In addition, to resuming service to Canada, the route offers three daily round trips between Portland and Seattle, two daily round trips between Eugene and Portland and four daily buses between Seattle and Vancouver BC.

While onboard, customers can enjoy the cafe car which features products grown and made in the Pacific Northwest on its current Bistro Menu. 

Customers also appreciate free Wi-Fi on the Washington segment of the trip, freedom to use phones and electronic devices at all times (no “airplane mode”), large spacious seats with ample leg room, no middle seat, and one of the most generous baggage policies in the travel industry, applicable for two personal items and two carry-on bags. 

Canadians can book tickets at Via Rail

Customers can purchase tickets at Amtrak online, travellers departing from Canada can also book their tickets at Via Rail.

For visitors and locals, the Amtrak Cascades Vancouver to Seattle is a wonderful way to view some of the most scenic vistas in the pacific northwest.

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Today, the mark of a luxury automobile is a combination of the best of design, the latest in technology and a degree of rarity. We may gasp at the commanding entry price of at least $150K USD but it was really no different back in the 1930’s.

During that era, the royal families of Europe and aristocratic American dynasties demanded to be driven around in some of the most extraordinary fast and efficient streamlined automobiles ever built. After all, the elite did not associate itself with the Ford Model T or the Volkswagen Beetle.

Upon visiting the Shape of Speed exhibition, you will find a rare group of seventeen cars and two motorcycles each of which demonstrate how automobile designers took used concepts of aerodynamic efficiency to create exciting machines that look as though they are moving even while parked.

These designs, which emulate the classic teardrop shape thought to cheat the wind, are emblematic of a whole new generation of shapes for automobiles that went on to influence the design of appliances, transport trucks and railroad locomotives.

The automotive marque on display represent some of Europe’s finest manufacturers, past and present. Mercedes-Benz, Bugatti, Talbot-Lago, Delahaye, Cord and Chrysler are all featured as are two motorcycle manufacturers, Henderson and BMW.

Located in the far corner of the exhibition hall, my favorite vehicle on display is a 1938 Delahaye 135M Roadster, manufactured in Paris by renowned coachbuilders Joseph Figoni and Ovidio Falaschi.

The pair were famous for their swoopy, elegant custom coachwork which took streamlining to the next level and became the expression of 1930’s European luxury. They accented the streamline effect to create singular designs that resulted in their automobiles being called “rolling sculptures” or “Paris gowns on wheels.” Their voluptuous designs became the epitome of Art Deco elegance.

Painted a deep, rich black, the Delahaye 135M Roadster, with its long hood and hand crafted sensuous front fenders, custom tan leather interiors and black piano dashboard, certainly made a statement then and continues to do so now.

Just eleven of these stunning roadsters were ever manufactured of which only seven survive today. This particular vehicle spent most of its life in Algeria and was found in 1992. It was missing its deck hood and the shrewd buyer – unlike the original owners who would have paid handsomely for such a car – bought the damaged automobile for about £60.

The cars and motorcycles featured in Shape of Speed: Streamlined Automobiles and Motorcycles, 1930 – 1942 represent the best of streamlined design. While touring the countryside draped in couture in a chauffeured custom roadster was very much a part of the wealthy life in europe, the mere sight of one of these fabulous vehicles gave a sense of optimism and expectation.

The privileged few who attend this exhibition will get a glimpse of that bygone era of dynamism and grace and leave feeling energized by the timeless shapes of streamlined design.

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