My visit was part of the PCA-CWR Big Horn Tour, which included over 40 Porsche owners from Canada and the USA exploring Banff National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

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Having visited Banff numerous times, I’ve witnessed its remarkable growth and transformation. On Banff Ave, the main boulevard, you will now find top fashion boutiques such as Canada Goose, Lululemon Athletica, Patagonia and a more diverse food scene. So, it is no longer the quiet, rustic Canadian Rockies town I experienced growing up.

Castle in the Rockies

The Fairmont Banff Springs, also known as the ‘Castle in the Rockies,’ was opened in 1888 by the Canadian Pacific Railway as one of Canada’s earliest grand railway hotels. In 1988, the hotel buildings were designated a National Historic Site of Canada. 

As you approach the main entrance, you enter the eleven-story central tower with steeply pitched roofs, ornate dormers, and gables. It is perched on a lush, green, forested mountainside overlooking a valley towards Mount Rundle.

In 1858, British explorer John Palliser renamed the mountain after Reverend Robert Rundle, who conducted missionary work in western Canada in the 1840s.

Best Patio Award 2024

As you step into the hotel lobby, take one of the curved staircases to the second floor, where the Rundle Bar is located towards the rear of the building. Ask for a table on the outdoor patio, which offers a panoramic view of the snow-capped Cascade mountains, or you can choose a plush seat inside by the fireplace.

Our visit was well-timed, as the Rundle Bar was awarded the ‘Best Patio Award 2024’ by Canada’s 100 Best, the definitive guide to the nation’s top restaurants, bars, and chefs. 

The bar’s interior design is reminiscent of a cozy living room. It features bespoke furniture groupings and intimate lighting pockets, creating a unique and inviting atmosphere.

The Rundle Bar’s lounge is anchored by a magnificent central bar, which connects to double-volume wooden arches that were once part of the original building facade. These arches have been transformed into full-height shelving with custom bronze and wood engraving, preserving the bar’s rich history.

The engraved ‘thistle’ is a common motif in the linenfold, plaster, and stained glasswork found throughout the historic hotel. One of the original arches next to the grand bar has been transformed into a floor-to-ceiling bookshelf with a secret door that leads guests to a posh speakeasy.

Wildflower, Rundle Bar’s signature cocktail

They recently introduced Rundle Bar Gin, exclusive to the bar in partnership with Canmore-based Wild Life Distillery. 

The gin features butterfly pea flower to create a vibrant purple hue when citrus and tonic is added. It is paired with flavorful botanical ingredients including juniper, coriander, lemon and grapefruit peel as well as angelica, orris and licorice root, to create a perfectly balanced floral gin. 

I recommend ordering the Rundle Bar’s signature cocktail, the Wildflower, on your next visit to the Fairmont Banff Springs.

Hotel bars: where unforgettable experiences come to life

Over the years, I have always enjoyed visiting hotel bars with my journalism colleagues. I fondly remember meeting in iconic hotels such as the Savoy in London, the Peninsula in Hong Kong, and the Carlton in St. Moritz.

A haven where I shared indelible life adventures with associates and occasionally with captivating women has genuinely enriched my life. 

As a luxury travel journalist, I’ve discovered that visiting historic hotel bars is one of life’s greatest pleasures. Cheers!

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To promote social-distancing, 100 and 200 blocks of Banff Avenue and Caribou Street are now closed to vehicle traffic creating a large pedestrian zone this summer. With the absence of international visitors and much smaller crowds, we felt very safe during our visit to Banff this summer.

Banff History

The majority of western Canadian towns were built on mining or natural resources but Banff is unique as it was built as a tourist destination in the late 1880’s around the natural hot springs discovered on Sulphur Mountain. 

To protect the Cave and Basin hot springs, as they came to be named, from uncontrolled development, the Canadian government created a reserve around the mountain. The Rocky Mountains Park of Canada, later renamed Banff National Park, was Canada’s first national park.

High in the mountains is the Banff Springs Hotel, a testament to the former might of the Canadian Pacific Railway which was essential to Banff’s development. The CPR brought tourists from across Canada on its railways and made Banff a world-class destination.

Bow Valley Parkway

New this summer is the closure of vehicle traffic along the Bow Valley Parkway, a narrow two-lane road north of Banff that runs parallel to Highway 1 and offers a walking and biking route that gets you up close to mother nature.

Rent a bike in Banff and make a day of viewing the alpine meadows and plentiful wildlife. Explore Johnston Canyon, filled with trails and bridges that take you to waterfalls, spring pools, and jagged rock walls. Dramatic natural beauty to say the very least.

Banff Gondola

One of the top attractions in this tourist hotspot is the Banff Gondola which takes visitors to the top of Sulphur Mountain for majestic views of several mountain ranges. The gondola takes about 8 minutes and places you at 7,486 feet above sea level. 

At the top, a boardwalk takes you to the Cosmic Ray Station, a national historical site and Sky Bistro, the tallest restaurant in Canada. Enjoy the views as well as the interpretive centre, dining options, and hiking trails. Plan to spend a minimum of three hours on the mountain. 

The current Banff Gondola protocol includes a thorough cleaning of each gondola after each use and the use of only every other gondola to ensure guests are able to maintain a safe social distance.

Sky Bistro

Known as the tallest restaurant in Canada, with views of the great Rockies Mountain ranges, the Sky Bistro is a dining experience that must be included during your visit.

With an open dining room concept, the restaurant’s floor to ceiling windows offered us stunning panoramic mountain views on one side of our table for two, making our mountain top meal an unforgettable experience.

To start, I recommend the Chowder full of PEI mussels, pacific salmon, BC prawns and clams, tobiko and bacon. For your entrée, try the Arctic Char which was flavourful yet delicate and came with a large portion of delectable truffle mash.

After exploring the top of Sulfur mountain, a quality dining experience makes for the perfect end to a day in Banff. Sky Bistro’s wine list covers a good selection of whites, reds and sparkling wines, making it a perfect spot for any celebration.

There is a gondola dining package that includes your choice of appetizer and entree and includes gratuities. Making your gondola and dining reservation online in advance, allows you to avoid the line ups. 

Despite the slow summer for tourism and travel, Albertans welcome British Columbians to experience Banff, one of Canada’s great national treasures. With smaller crowds and awesome outdoor adventures, it’s the perfect vacation destination this year.  

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The Canadian Rockies never get old. No matter how many visits I make to the Banff region, it feels new and different each trip. Call me biased but I firmly believe that the much vaunted Swiss Alps have nothing on our majestic Rockies which span the length of the province and offer innumerable options for travellers limited by COVID-19 restrictions.

Currently, BC Health Officer Dr. Bonnie Henry’s message is to enjoy the great outdoors but to practice social distancing, avoid large groups, and keep your social bubble small. While summer music and theatre festivals may be on hold for 2020, campgrounds, parks and other outdoors attractions are beginning to open up to travellers.

Even as some BC communities are still closed to visitors, Lake Louise is open and Albertans welcome British Columbians to visit this summer. With a bit of preplanning you can have an exciting and safe outdoor staycation just a stone’s throw from BC.

Located 35 km east of the British Columbia – Alberta provincial boundary on Highway 1, Lake Louise is a 9-hour drive from Vancouver. We packed our vehicle with lunch and beverages and only made a couple of rest stops to minimize interaction with locals and keep a safe and respectful distance.

Rediscover Lake Louise

A natural wonder of our Canadian Rockies, Lake Louise was originally named Emerald Lake by guide Tom Wilson in 1882. In 1884, a Canadian Pacific Railway camp, which would become the hamlet that still exists today, sprung up around the lake, which was renamed Lake Louise to honor Princess Louise, daughter of Queen Victoria and wife of the marquess of Lorne who was Governor-General of Canada 1878-83.

This wonderful lake is surrounded by forest covered mountains and offers breathtaking scenery, hiking, canoeing, mountain climbing, and skiing. During our Sunday visit, we found ample parking available on site which is not typical for the summer season. If the parking lots are full, you will unfortunately be turned away as the overfull lot and shuttle service is not operating this summer due to COVID-19.

Lake Louise Trail 

The definition of a relaxing hike, the Lake Louise Lakeshore takes you along the lake to milky creek which is the source of the lake’s magical green colour water. The distance is about 2 km one way with a hiking time of 1 hour. The elevation is minimal making this an ideal walk for families with small children.

Lake Agnes Tea House Trail

For those wanting a moderate day hike, head for Lake Agnes. The trail starts at the rear of the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. Once there, turn right and follow the signs along a trail that runs for 3.4 km one way with an elevation climb of 385 meters. Plan for about 3 hours for a round trip – longer if you wish to visit the tea house.

The trail is covered in crushed gravel but becomes rocky as you approach the upper areas and there is a large staircase to reach the top of the waterfall and Lake Agnes Tea House. 

Built in the Swiss style, the tea house is a very civilized way to view the mountain range that surrounds Lake Louise. Drop in for a sandwich, tea and coffee, and a dessert. I recommend the banana bread or the chocolate cake. 

Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise 

A popular pastime for visitors to the area is to drop in on the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise for lunch or an afternoon drink. During our visit, the front doorman told us to check with the dinning staff at the rear of the building. We never found any hotel staff near the gated entrances – marked with ‘hotel guest only’ signs – so to avoid disappointment call ahead to see if dining options are available.

Now with smaller crowds, rediscover Lake Louise this summer or fall as there is no better way than to enjoy this great country of ours. 

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